Nestled right in the heart of Old Town Bay St. Louis you’ll find a family-owned gem of a restaurant: Cuz’s Old Town Oyster Bar. This bustling spot is exactly what you’d imagine a classic coastal casual restaurant to be: waterfront, sunlight pouring in through large windows, a patio flanked by oak trees and funky, folksy decorations. It’s a setup that naturally lends itself to socializing, enjoying the buzz of downtown, taking in the view, and eating some great food developed from one family’s kitchen.
First of all, we went to Cuz’s on one of those amazing Coast days. It was a perfect 70 degrees, not a cloud in the sky, birds chirping – you get the idea. The spacious patio drew us in immediately and we passed a good time enjoying cocktails and appetizers before diving into a true feast. We were greeted by Ramie, the daughter of the owners who keeps the floor and kitchen flowing in harmony while making every customer feel at home. She insisted that we try the April daiquiri of the month – the bananas foster. Boy, were we glad we did! It was more akin to a homemade banana pudding in flavor – ripe banana, vanilla with a creamy, custardy base. It was beautifully presented in a hurricane glass and topped with a cherry.
I always try the gumbo at Coast restaurants, as each recipe is unique as a fingerprint. Cuz’s did not disappoint. Their gumbo recipe has been in their family for generations, and you can taste the love that goes into it. It has a dark, thick Cajun roux. I love a heady spice blend, and this one has it. You’ll note the garlic and filé against a backdrop of aromatic herbs. The first bite I took had a big ole lump of crabmeat in it, followed by a big Gulf shrimp. It was a gumbo that every true Coastie dreams of. We also enjoyed a platter of Cuz’s signature chargrilled oysters. They are plump, juicy and slightly briny. They’re grilled just long enough to toast the cheese and bacon crumbles. We were just polishing off our oyster platter when we heard a familiar voice from around the corner.
Cuz himself came around with a friendly “hey y’all,” and paid us a visit. He is a fixture at the restaurant, and always makes a point to go around and visit with each table.
Cuz (whose real name is Melvin) and Christy Barnes first opened Cuz’s in 2004 as a seafood market on Highway 603, which is now occupied by Beachside Bistro. A few years into opening, they added a kitchen and some outdoor seating with a small menu. They moved to Beach Boulevard in 2016 and the rest is history. They now have a robust menu, a loyal following of locals, and a steady stream of visitors.
For entrees, we went with a tried and true favorite with the Mardi Gras Pasta, the Candied Smash Burger and the Seafood Au Gratin. The burger was served on a soft yet toasty bun with a well-seasoned double patty and bacon jam. I am always skeptical of bacon jam, but Cuz’s is great. The bacon is chopped and crisped, and they add brown sugar once the fat is rendered. This way it retains a fresh, crunchy texture with a smooth sweetness. We had onion rings on the side, which were truly something! They had a light, flavorful batter with a little black pepper and were served with remoulade for dipping. The flavor and texture complemented the burger well.
The Mardi Gras pasta is a seafood Alfredo with a coastal twist. They add a blend of seasonings to the sauce, plus alligator sausage and shrimp and serve it over fettuccini. In a word, this dish is bold. The sauce is thick and creamy, with a great peppery kick. The gator sausage adds another layer of flavor without making it too heavy. The shrimp, however, are the heart of this dish. They’re large, firm yet tender, and have a briny umami flavor. Our dish was garnished with green onion, adding a little brightness and crunch.
Ramie suggested the Seafood Au Gratin, as it is one of her favorites. I took a bite and understood why. Cuz’s Seafood Au Gratin contains shrimp, crabmeat and lobster, giving it a slightly sweet flavor and a firmer bite. The sauce is a bit lighter than most and has a some extra flavor from finely chopped onion and bell pepper. It is topped with Mozzarella and toasted under the broiler until golden brown and served with sliced, toasted French bread. I would recommend this dish to seafood lovers who prefer a mild spice level.
Cuz’s Old Town Oyster Bar is a great choice for lunch or dinner. You can count on their seafood being fresh and delicious, with recipes that have withstood the test of time. Between the food, the view, the atmosphere and the hospitality, you will want to keep coming back time and again.
